<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8" ?>
<rss xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" version="2.0">
  <channel>
    <title>Homebrew_PCBs at Yahoo! Groups</title>
    <link>http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/</link>
    <description>Homebrew Printed Circuit Boards</description>

    <item>
      <title>Re: Eyelet press recommendation</title>
      <pubDate>Sat, 05 Jul 2008 20:04:33 GMT</pubDate>
      <dc:creator>Bertho Boman</dc:creator>
      <link>http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21072</link>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21072</guid>
      <description>Here is an interesting piece of related information: A lot of years ago one major company, that I am not allowed to mention, was eyeletting double sided PCB</description>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Eyelet press recommendation</title>
      <pubDate>Sat, 05 Jul 2008 18:53:57 GMT</pubDate>
      <dc:creator>Stefan Trethan</dc:creator>
      <link>http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21071</link>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21071</guid>
      <description>I most definitely remember reading somewhere that a completely &quot;dry&quot; iron (free of any solder) is to be used to reflow eyelets, else the solder will close the</description>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Eyelet press recommendation</title>
      <pubDate>Sat, 05 Jul 2008 18:36:48 GMT</pubDate>
      <dc:creator>Harvey White</dc:creator>
      <link>http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21070</link>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21070</guid>
      <description>... Solder plated just means that they solder a bit more easily, and go better with tin/lead plated boards. I haven&#39;t had a problem with either type. Harvey</description>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Eyelet press recommendation</title>
      <pubDate>Sat, 05 Jul 2008 17:07:48 GMT</pubDate>
      <dc:creator>JanRwl@...</dc:creator>
      <link>http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21069</link>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21069</guid>
      <description>In a message dated 7/5/2008 11:52:01 A.M. Central Daylight Time, gustavo@... writes: For  those of you who have used the International eyelets, which</description>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Eyelet press recommendation</title>
      <pubDate>Sat, 05 Jul 2008 16:51:49 GMT</pubDate>
      <dc:creator>Gustavo Tenrreiro</dc:creator>
      <link>http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21068</link>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21068</guid>
      <description>Thanks for the replies. For those of you who have used the International eyelets, which type have you used ? ( i.e. flat, funnel or rolled flange ). Also what</description>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: double sided PCB, accuracy - 2nd part</title>
      <pubDate>Sat, 05 Jul 2008 10:02:03 GMT</pubDate>
      <dc:creator>Bertho Boman</dc:creator>
      <link>http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21067</link>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21067</guid>
      <description>Try printing a grid, for example 10 x 10mm, across the page and measure it to see what is actually happening.  If there is a linear error in one direction you</description>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>double sided PCB, accuracy - 2nd part</title>
      <pubDate>Sat, 05 Jul 2008 06:15:22 GMT</pubDate>
      <dc:creator>Michel Baguet</dc:creator>
      <link>http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21066</link>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21066</guid>
      <description>I made prints on 76µ (3mil) polyester drawing paper, I bought them 20 years ago to make PCB, using a pen plotter and UV exposure. This paper is very stable</description>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Eyelet press recommendation</title>
      <pubDate>Sat, 05 Jul 2008 05:25:14 GMT</pubDate>
      <dc:creator>torquemada40223</dc:creator>
      <link>http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21065</link>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21065</guid>
      <description>If they&#39;re simple eyelets, you might just use a small steel plate and a transfer punch. When I built an amplifier a bit ago, I used a transfer punch to stake </description>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: etched 5/5 results</title>
      <pubDate>Sat, 05 Jul 2008 02:16:57 GMT</pubDate>
      <dc:creator>DJ Delorie</dc:creator>
      <link>http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21064</link>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21064</guid>
      <description>... Hmmm... Hadn&#39;t thought of it that way.  Of course, since I&#39;m using special paper (Silkjet or Jetstar at the moment), my options are limited.  Neither have</description>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: etched 5/5 results</title>
      <pubDate>Fri, 04 Jul 2008 23:51:44 GMT</pubDate>
      <dc:creator>John Coppens</dc:creator>
      <link>http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21063</link>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21063</guid>
      <description>On 04 Jul 2008 17:57:16 -0400 ... That&#39;s what I meant - if the paper is just slightly thicker, the paper would advance (microscopically) faster. Even when the</description>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Eyelet press recommendation</title>
      <pubDate>Fri, 04 Jul 2008 22:48:26 GMT</pubDate>
      <dc:creator>Mike Young</dc:creator>
      <link>http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21062</link>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21062</guid>
      <description>I haven&#39;t bothered in quite a few years... I ground and filed flat the tip of a spring-loaded centerpunch. The anvil is just whatever was suitable and lying</description>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: etched 5/5 results</title>
      <pubDate>Fri, 04 Jul 2008 21:57:18 GMT</pubDate>
      <dc:creator>DJ Delorie</dc:creator>
      <link>http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21061</link>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21061</guid>
      <description>... I don&#39;t think so.  The pattern is regular, and depends on where on the image it is, and doesn&#39;t correspond to my own accuracy tests I did last week or so.</description>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: etched 5/5 results</title>
      <pubDate>Fri, 04 Jul 2008 21:52:04 GMT</pubDate>
      <dc:creator>Stefan Trethan</dc:creator>
      <link>http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21060</link>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21060</guid>
      <description>I haven&#39;t followed the discussion, but i assume the printer calibration settings were tweaked already? There is a tool for epson printers to adjust all kinds</description>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: etched 5/5 results</title>
      <pubDate>Fri, 04 Jul 2008 21:29:03 GMT</pubDate>
      <dc:creator>John Coppens</dc:creator>
      <link>http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21059</link>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21059</guid>
      <description>On 04 Jul 2008 17:15:12 -0400 ... Couldn&#39;t the comb indicate that the paper thickness is incorrect? Maybe slightly thinner/thicker paper would cause the error</description>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Re: Eyelet press recommendation</title>
      <pubDate>Fri, 04 Jul 2008 21:27:41 GMT</pubDate>
      <dc:creator>Harvey White</dc:creator>
      <link>http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21058</link>
      <guid isPermaLink="true">http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/Homebrew_PCBs/message/21058</guid>
      <description>... It&#39;s toner transfer onto the board, then a white film available from pulsar (www.pulsar.gs). Avoid having the stuff over traces and it does much better.  I</description>
    </item>

  </channel>
</rss>
<!-- wr1.grp.scd.yahoo.com uncompressed/chunked Sat Jul  5 15:10:15 PDT 2008 -->
